Shopping in Budapest has changed dramatically since the more spartan days of Communism. A huge variety of consumer goods, both foreign and , home produced, are now available here. Major shopping streets include the pedestrianized and fashionable Váci utca good for folk art and Zsolnay porcelain, and the less fashionable, but much cheaper Nagykörút, where locals come to do their shopping. For a more traditional shopping experience, don't miss a visit to some of Budapest's many markets. These range from stunning 19th- century food halls such as the Great Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok), to flea markets such as the huge and lively Ecseri Flea Market, for everything from bric-a-brac to furniture and antiques.
Most shops in Budapest open from 9am to 5.30 or 6pm Monday to Friday, and from 9am to 1pm on Saturday. Department stores open at 10am, while green-grocers, bakeries and supermarkets are open from 7am until 8pm. Many shops stay open until 8 or 9pm on Thursday, closing for an hour at lunchtime. Indoor markets and department stores open on Sunday, and most cafes sell milk and bread on Sunday morning. One result of the increase in private enterprise since 1989 is a large number of small shops which open 24 hours a day and sell groceries, cigarettes and alcohol.
Credit cards and Euro-cheques can be used to pay for goods and services.in many of the more touristy parts of Budapest. Outside these areas it is best to carry plenty of cash in Hungarian forints.
The price of all goods in Hungary includes a value-added tax of 25% (ÁFA). With the exception of works of art and antiques, it is possible to claim back the value-added tax on anything costing more than 50,000 forints when you leave the country. First, preset your goods at customs within 90 days of purchase to receive your customs certification and a refund claim form. You will need your sales receipt and currency exchange or credit card receipt, plus the customs certification, to apply for your refund within 183 days of your return home.
There are a number of department stores in the city, many housed in spectacular old buildings. The Secession-style Luxus on Vörösmarty tér offers three floors of smart men's and women's clothing, as well as accessories and perfumes. Nearby on Váci utca, the Fontana is a slightly down-market version of the Luxus, with an excellent rooftop cafe. More of a mall than a department store, the Duna Plaza on Váci út is smart but overpriced. It is equipped with an ice-skating rink, a video arcade and a bowling alley. The now refurbished Corvin on Blaha Lujzha tér is the closest you can get to the kitsch treasure troves of the Communist era. The old-fashioned payment system involves taking an invoice and paying at a booth before going to claim your purchase. Another store worth a look is Skála Metro on Nyugati ter opposite the railway station, and on Flórián tér in Óbuda. The most exciting new mall is Westend City Center. Central Europe's largest, the centre has over 350 stores, including Armani, Benetton and Marks & Spencer, a 14-screen cinema and a food court.
Markets are an essential part of life in Budapest, and offer a delightfully traditional shopping experience to visitors. Perhaps the most spectacular are the five cavernous market halls which dot the city. All were built in the late 19th century and several are still used as markets. The three-level Great Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok) on Fővám tér is the largest of all. More than 180 stalls display a huge variety of vegetables, fruit, meat and cheese, under a gleaming roof of brightly-coloured Zsolnay tiles. The market opens from 7am-6pm Mon-Fri and 7am-1pm Sat. In addition to the covered market halls, there are open- air food markets in every Budapest neighbourhood. In many you will see country women in traditional costumes selling fruit and vegetables, as well as local cheeses, honey and sausages. Some of the best markets are at Lehel tér (district XIII), Bosnyák tér (XIV) and Fehérvári út (IX). Delicious hot sausages with mustard and fresh bread; or lángos, a flat bread served with cream or grated cheese, are traditional and widely available market snacks. Beginning at 156 Nagyk6r6si ut in district XIX, is the Ecseri Flea Market. Outside, a maze of wooden tables is covered in Communist artifacts, second-hand clothes and all sorts of bric-a-brac, while from tiny cubicles inside the market, serious antique dealers sell porcelain, icons, silverware, jewellery and much more. It is necessary to obtain permission from the Museum of Applied Arts before you can take antiques out of the country. The flea market is open 8am-3:30pm Mon-Fri and 8am-2pm Sat. Another market well worth a visit is the extremely busy Józsefvárosi Market, situated close to ]ózsefváros pu. on Kőbányai út and open 7am-6pm daily. Many of the traders here are Chinese, often with Roma assistants, using the Trans-Siberian railway to transport a huge variety of new goods from China, southeast Asia, the former Soviet Union and eastern Europe, all sold at knock-down prices. Look out for all sorts of entertaining and obvious southeast Asian fashion fakes, as well as electronic goods, Chinese silks, Russian caviar and vodka, and Stalinist memorabilia. Authentic Chinese, Vietnamese or Turkish food stalls offer a tasty lunch.
In some restaurants a service charge is included in the final bill, in others it is customary to tip. If a service charge is added, this should be stated on either the menu or the bill; this could be up to 15 per cent. However, if there is any doubt, it is courteous to leave a tip. In general, an acceptable tip is between 10-15 per cent of the cost of the meal.
